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Profile: creighta
User Name: creighta
Forum Rank: Newbie
Real Name:
Location Georgetown/OH
Gender: None Specified
Joined: Wednesday, January 16, 2008
Last Visit: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 5:30:04 PM
Number of Posts: 0
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Last 10 Posts
Topic: Glueing up panels
Posted: Thursday, April 05, 2012 7:08:22 AM
if small enough to go through the planer we glue thick and then plane. I was taught to glue at at 3/4 and scrape with a scraper-not a sander. In my own shop at home I use the 3/4 method bc my planer is only 12", but you have to be very exact with the clamps and kids have trouble w/ that.

For side panels I would not glue a solid panel for several reasons. it is unstable, it is expensive, and actually takes more material then making a raised panel by the time you are done. I would do raised panel sides and have them glue up the blanks for the panels.

**On another note: I just finished a set of oak cabinets in January where I used some 20yr old boards that were 16" wide for the panels. AWSOME!**
Topic: Sander question
Posted: Thursday, March 15, 2012 1:36:36 PM
I like my Porter cable better than any I have had.

Most of mine (especially the dewalts) actually were 100dB. That makes them almost as loud as the router under load. The Porter Cable is better, but not much-it is just more durable.
Topic: Carving Tools
Posted: Tuesday, March 13, 2012 7:37:34 AM
I have taught carving for four years now. I always buy each student a good set of carving knives from Warren cutlery. They have a good handle and interchangeable (not disposable) blades, but are not xacto knives.

For relief carving we purchased cheap sets of carving chisels from Grizzley.

The 3/8" gouge is probably the most used. We use it to set in and set back, but the carving knife is still the most important. In my home kit I have a series of gouges ranging from 1/4 up to 3/4. I also like a small v gouge for making hair lines.

BTW: a piece of 400grt or 220grt sand paper can put a razor edge on a carving tool nicely.
Topic: blade height on table saw
Posted: Friday, March 09, 2012 7:44:37 AM
the thickness of the carbide.

a low blade runs cool because it pulls air in and allows the gullets to act as an air pump. It also discharges the dust out of the bottom. If you raise the blade to where the surface below the teeth is into the material then you increase the friction and also increase the heat build up. THis can cause kickback. If you have ever run a sawmill you will alos know that this (heat) can cause the blade to deform.

Another way to look at it is that after kickback the most common way to get cut on atablesaw is to run your finger across the blade on top of the material. If you have the blade set at 1/8" this is a pretty bad cut, but if it is at 5/16 or 1/2 then you have a missing finger.

I would seriously question the rep that suggested exposing the gullets. On some baldes they may be close to the depth of the carbide, but on most combo blades the gullet is almost 5/8" deep.
Topic: Wood instruments
Posted: Friday, March 09, 2012 7:38:56 AM
Didley bows are super easy and fun to play with.

We also used to make african drums that were basically just a big wood box with tongues cut out of the top. They are pretty amazing instruments as well. We got our plans out of an old WOOD magazine but you could make your own from checking out the dimensions and pictures here
Topic: Leaving
Posted: Wednesday, February 29, 2012 11:44:25 AM
It was a hard decision, but i am leaving the shop to teach engineering full time next year. They plan on filling my position so if anyone in Southern Ohio or Northern KY is certified you should apply. Georgetown is a great school and we have a nice small shop with a few talented workers in it as well.
Topic: lathe safety question
Posted: Wednesday, February 29, 2012 11:41:00 AM
I used to require face shields over safety glasses. Since I moved to mini lathes I keep the face shields out and most kids use them, but I do not press the issue anymore as I have yet to see a dangerous failure yet. I had safety shields on the lathes and did not like them, one that I made myself actually works well, but that raises a whole different issue.

As far as projects go, I require tops turned to specs based on measurements. This teaches them how to handle a snap gauge. I also like to do duck calls, they are easy and very irritating. We do everything out of scrap that we glue together, it is more stable and cheaper.
Topic: teaching burnout?
Posted: Wednesday, February 29, 2012 11:31:46 AM
It happens, especially with the stress of this position.

After Christmas every year I schedule a series of lessons that get us out of the shop completely. I do sheetmetal boxes using paper, I do drafting, and I do other classroom activities that are typically hard to fit in during this time such as measurement, board feet, and safety reviews (yes we cover safety prior to this, but you can't get too much review of it).

I have found that these few weeks "off" from the stress of ever impending danger is a nice change of pace, it is extremely educational for the kids, but they hate it so much that I can hold it over their heads as an alternative to shop for the next six weeks.

If you have computers, thin up something ridiculous and tell the kids to make it w/o giving any further guidance. I have done hovercrafts, airplanes, and catapults this way in the past.

Topic: Semesters ending and I'm losing it!
Posted: Friday, December 16, 2011 7:36:47 AM
It looks like your program flow is focused on Woods, so drop the welding to a survey and just cover the absolute basics and safety. I would introduce welding at the end of the first quarter and give one assignment that is due at the end of the next quarter so that they can work on it in their down time. That will free up more time for the woods instruction.

Everyone does it a little differently, but I have had best results in my intro class by assigning small, one week projects that use a specific tool and or process. One example is using a picture frame to teach rabetting and miters. I also use a very simple one class plywood sign to teach router use for both edges and engraving.

I can also say that I now think sketchup is an essential in cabinetry because it can cut down on mistakes and can even help get the most out of a piece of plywood. I spent two hours on Sketchup this weekend designing a set of cabinets and had them cased in an hour because the measurements were all perfectly laid out for me.

SO---what is necessary, in my opinion
1. Safety -general shop and basic tool function.
2. table saw, in and out and sideways.
3. joinery other than slap and nail, but extremes really can wait until their next class, I teach doevtails and box joints in basics.
4. design....too many people can't design the project they need to build and if you can't design it you really don't understand how it should go together.

Hope this is of some help.
Topic: that thing on the top???
Posted: Friday, September 09, 2011 12:41:30 PM
THANK YOU!!! I knew they had a real name, I have made them, but didn't know you could buy them till yesterday.

Maybe I can sleep tonight now.

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